See, there is this bar just a block away from our hotel in New Orleans. We've been by it a million times but have never gone in, as they charge a cover. Plus the guys at the door are not very welcoming to middle-aged breeder couples from Podunk, Middle America. Not that I'm saying they're haughty or just the teensiest bit snooty and so My-Abs-Are-So-Fabulous or anything like that. But you can always tell they're looking you over as you walk past and finding you lacking in oh, so many sartorial and style categories. Ones you don't even know about, possibly involving your eyebrows or footwear choice.
But! There are dancers in there, svelte (if sweaty) young men wearing nothing more (at least on first glance, but we'll get to that later) than animal print (cheetah? leopard? you don't really want to be caught peering closely enough to find out) loincloths and combat boots. I know this is a very hot look because my friend Mark told me so, although that was many, many years ago and one would have thought the aesthetic would have changed. Oh, wait! Does the whole gigantic breasts and G-string thing ever go out of style? Duh. So never mind. Hotness never changes. My bad.
So I decide to improve the lives of The Wonder Gays and Gabriel and Lil' Bastard--and, hell, a whole host of other friends--by taking a photo of a hot guy dancing on a bar so that they'll have hope that not all gay bars are as skanky and sad as the one we went to in Odessa. David and Keith already know this, having reported on bars in Dallas and Toronto, but I'm all about spreading hope and joy and light, so I get my new little camera and set off, late on Friday night. The EGE goes along, which is a good thing, as it turns out I have no money, having spent all mine. He hands over $5, and I set about charming the doormen into letting me come in to take photos. They are not, as you might expect, thrilled about this. On the one hand, it is a slow night, and $5 is $5. On the other hand, what could be more irritating and pathetic than to have a woman wanting to take a picture for "her friend back home." They're thinking a bunch of women who get together to drink wine and whine about their husbands, women who will titter (titter! what a silly word!) embarrassedly over this photo I want to take, all bachelorette-party-ish, but older and needing bifocals to see the naughty bits.
Finally one of them lets me in, at which point the other tells me that they really don't allow photographs. Now, normally I'd say, "Oh, hell, no! You're not even going there: taking my money and THEN telling me I can't take a photograph!" But they kind of had me, so instead I sweet-talked my way up to the bar, where I set about trying to get the dancer's attention. He was squatting atop the bar, with his back to me, meaning his scantily-clad butt, which was supposedly as sweaty as the rest of him, hovered at about the level of my nose. So I was holding my breath, as you might imagine. And I couldn't very well tap him on his shoulder to get his attention, since I couldn't reach his actual shoulder, and I assume there are rules about tapping Mostly Naked People anywhere else. So I kind of cleared my throat and said, "EXCUSE ME!" Because it was, of course, really noisy. And he stood up and turned around and looked at me the way you'd look at a cockroach in your soup. Which I guess I kind of was. I explained what I wanted to do, and he mumbled and acted like he was going to say no--I was NOT going to throw myself on his mercy by bringing up The Gay Friend Card, you know, where you try to curry favor by saying something asinine like, "I have a lot of ______________ {gay, black, tall, rich, disabled, whatever} friends!"
Finally, he agrees, and I step back and adjust the camera--you know, for lighting and distance and all that. And I'm looking into the LED and finalizing the settings and look up just in time to see him flip up his loincloth and FLASH ME! Except I didn't realize that that was what had happened, because I was not thinking about what he was doing; I was wondering if I should have used the ISO setting or the Night Portrait setting, you know? Because I know damn well he's not going to let me take a photo and look at it and go, "Oh, no, that's not right. Hang on and let me take another one. Nope, that's not it, either. Could you stand over there under the beer sign?"
So I'm not really sure WHAT I saw. I saw testicles. Those are, sadly, hard to miss. And if they were accompanied by a penis, then there was something else entirely going on. I mean, like some costume or some accessory that um, sort of changed the landscape, if you will. Some sort of truss or something. Or else there was just much sadness and lack in the world of this boy. I would have to feel very, very sorry for him. And then there was something else--I swear--something that looked like a little red bow. But by the time I realized I was seeing something that was NOT loincloth, it was all over: the clothing was back in place, the photo was taken, the sweaty guy had approved it (he wouldn't let me leave until he had). I couldn't very well go, "Wait a minute, wait a minute! What was THAT? Is that your dick? Or what? And was that a BOW in there? What's up with that? Let me see--I didn't really catch it the first time."

I'm still confused, when I think about it; and I'm just very, very glad The EGE was spared.
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So we went back to the room, and we got ready to have our nightly indulgence of The World's Most Fabulous Chocolate and brandy. And there was all this noise--this laughing and guffawing and banging and snickering and yelling, all out in the hall, right outside our door. I assumed it was the guys next door, a bunch of college-looking boys who never appeared without a beer can in their hands. We had heard one, earlier, standing out on the balcony talking to someone on the phone, telling them how "totally fucked up" he was and saying he'd just thrown a chair off his patio. He meant "balcony," but either way he was lying. The EGE and I just looked at each other, going, "He's lying!" dumbfounded that anyone would want to make themselves sound like more of an idiot than they already were, being drunk before noon. Ah, the loveliness of beer.
The noise kept on and kept on, and finally I went to the door and opened it and put my finger to my lips and said, "Shhhhhh! Someone's going to come up and get you if you don't be quiet out here!" And all that noise that I had imagined was being made by a party of frat boys and some hoochie mamas they'd picked up in the street, with much nakedness and revelry and possibly incipient puking, which was My True Fear, was actually being made by a 45-year-old mother of five and her husband, age 47. I know this because she told me this many, many times, adding that she had a grandchild, as well, and that when they'd told her, she'd cried until she threw up. Lovely!
This woman was lying on her back in the middle of the hallway, with her legs in the air, trying to take off her heels. Her husband was trying to help her but fell down and just gave up. She seemed very happy to see me and wanted nothing more than to crawl into my room to tell me her story--she kept saying, "JUST LET ME TELL YOU MY STORY!" only it came out more like "JUS' LE' ME TELL YOU MASTORY!" And she kept trying to crawl into my room. I was sure that, the moment she did, she would either pass out and die or puke, in which case she would still be dead, as I would have to kill her.

"Do you need help?"
"YES! I NEED ALL KINDS OF HELP!"
"Do you want me to call someone?"
"JUS" LE" ME TELL YOU MASTORY!"
Like that. Over and over. I said, "Someone's going to come out here and take a picture of you," hoping that would encourage her to crawl on down the hall to her room. She said, "OH! WOULD YOU? AND SEND IT TO ME?"
So I did. Of course I didn't get her name or address so I could send it to her; I don't think any of us really had access to that information at the time. I did worry about them the next day--if you're 22, you can recover from that kind of drunkenness in a day or so. But when you're a grandmother? Oy. I hope she recovered in time to enjoy the rest of the weekend, because it was way too fabulous to spend in a dim room with a wet cloth on your forehead, chewing aspirin (I know this from reading James Lee Burk, where people often chew aspirin, which sounds only slightly better than eating dirt).
Then we spent Sunday afternoon at Satchmo Summerfest, listening to the Rebirth Brass Band and Kermit Ruffins and the Barbecue Swingers. It was hot and close, with tons and tons of people. And here's what I learned:
--Years ago I read a review of a movie set Down South, and the reviewer scoffed at directors' portrayals of Southerners as always being sweaty. He wrote that it's a cliche and that, In Real Life, there's always air conditioning in cars and houses and businesses and no real chance for people to be so sweaty all the time. He had obviously never been to New Orleans in the summer. It isn't that hot, but it's humid, and there are tons of people, and you're out walking. Many shops have antiquated ac systems, and it's often hotter inside than it is outside. You sweat. A lot. So you always carry either a fan, or a rag, or both. The men carry rags--either washcloths or hand towels or some kind of small, absorbent cloth. You use it to mop off your face and head; and, if you find cool water, you can wet it and use it to cool yourself down. If you're a woman, you carry a fan. Either those kind like funeral homes hand out so you won't fall out during the service, or the old-fashioned kind that fold up. During a break, we walked over to the French Market and bought a selection of the latter, and I spent the rest of the day and evening perfecting my dramatic Fan Flourishing Technique. I'm quite excellent at it now, after much practicing. Luckily for me, The EGE is a patient man, not given to fits of irritation at someone who keeps on flinging open a fan and then closing it with a snap, over and over and over. Walking on the street. In the hotel room. At dinner at A Nice Restaurant. In the car on the way home. Otherwise I'd be dead.
--people in New Orleans really do know how to have fun. It's hot, it's sweaty, there's nowhere to sit or lean or really even stand where air can get to you. But there we are, packed all together, listening to the The Rebirth Brass Band and then to Kermit Ruffins, and we're old (much older than I, even) and young (from babies to little kids who danced on stage) and black and white, rich and poor, drunk and sober--all dancing and clapping and having a grand time on a Sunday afternoon. Many of the people who come to Satchmofest are natives, rather than tourists (although I'm sure there are a lot of us, as well)--we've talked to them. Many of the people this year were Kermit's fans who see him all the time. The crowd had a fabulous time, all the way until closing. Just a little bit of that approach to life would do Midland a whole lot of good. Help some of these people loosen up just the teensiest little bit.
We left on Monday morning. As we pulled away from the hotel, The EGE stopped at the intersection of Bourbon and Orleans streets, opened the back door, took out the box that holds my mother's ashes, and waltzed with her in the intersection. He said he wanted to dance with her on Bourbon Street. It took me completely by surprise, and I had to scramble to find my little camera.