OK, I give up. For days now--for weeks--I've been trying to figure out how to talk about what obsesses me. No, I don't mean "obsesses me" in any OCD sort of way, although who knows? That might have something to do with ALL my serial obsessions.
No, this is "obsesses me" in the very best kind of way. But I can't talk about it because I don't even know how to describe it. So I thought, hey, I'll just do the best I can and then ask y'all to join in and discuss the idea.
I do stuff with clothes, right? I love clothes. And bags. And jewelry. You might call it Personal Adornment. Tattoos. I love it. It's like the biggest thing, interest-wise, right up there next to writing. But here's the deal: I have no interest in fashion. In fact, I loathe fashion, because fashion--what's in style right now, what's hip, what everyone wants--is the opposite of what interests me about clothes and bags and stuff. What fascinates me, what I find endlessly intriguing, is personal style, and, specifically, Personally Meaningful Clothing/Bags/Jewelry.
One-of-a-kind handmade stuff, heavily embellished by the person who wears it, is like crack to me. But wait--I'm guessing that someone who loves crack can find it pretty much anywhere. I cannot find PMPA (Personally Meaningful Personal Adornment--and here's some more help I need: we need a name for this. It's not artwear, it's not wearable art (I don't like that term; I like artwear better (and wanted it for the title of Book #2 but was overruled), but I need a more descriptive term, because I'm not talking about shibori or hand-quilted jackets, although those could be PMPA. See?) everywhere. I hardly ever find it at all. When I do find it, it's crazy: my heart beats faster, ideas start zipping around in my head, I want a really close-up view, I want to talk to the person who's wearing it (but since it's usually in a book or online, and since, for some reason, these people are really hard to get hold of, I hardly ever get to).
Need some examples? Well, pretty much everything in Native Funk & Flash, of course, which explains a lot: this book came out in 1974, and that's when I got a copy and began this obsession. Up until then, my mother had made almost all my clothes, stuff we designed together. But I was a senior in high school, and my mother was having a miserable life by then, and I'd never been interested in learning to sew regular clothes from a pattern. These things, though--this opened up a whole new world. While I wasn't allowed to do much to my own clothes--we'd just left California, where we'd lived in 1968 and 1969, and my parents were absolutely terrified their only child was going to Become a Hippie. Terrified. They watched me like hawks. Well, when they weren't making each other miserable, they did. I was once grounded for 6 weeks for wearing a pair of my best friend's jeans, jeans that had--OMG!--the hems ripped out. Rampant Hippie-Becomingness!
So--you might glean from this that 1) my high school years living in our house were not happy ones and 2) I've been in the grips of this same clothing obsession since 1974 but was, at the beginning, frustrated by both lack of skill in the whole clothing-altering area and parental restrictions.
OK. So enough history. I turn 55 next month, and for me, it's always seemed The Magic Age, the one where I'll drop any few remaining constraints (I can't think of any, but I'm sure there are things I do that, if I were on a desert island all by myself, I wouldn't do. Like what? I have no clue) and do exactly what I want to do, particularly when it comes to how I look.
Quit snorting! I'm serious here~~
So you want some examples of what intrigues me? Sigh. They are so few and far between, but let me see what I can find for your viewing pleasure.
Here's Natalie Gibson, a textile designer, for one:
You can see more about her here, at StyleLikeU. Go there and do the slide show, which I do over and over, wishing I could spend a couple hours in her closet, pulling things out and asking, her, "Where did you get this? Why do you like it? What's your favorite thing about it? Where did you wear it last? How do you feel when you wear it?"
So you're thinking, "Ah, it's about women with weird-colored hair and bright clothes." Nope, that's not it. There's also this:
which you can't see but is the only photo I can find of Minerva, the voodoo woman from the movie Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil. I LOVE her. I want to study everything she's wearing. I watch the movie just to see her (and, of course, Lady Chablis). Here's a clip, but it's so dark you can't see much there, either. I like the scene where she's in the park, because then you can see her in the daylight. She was supposed to be based on Valerie Boles; I can't find images of her, either, possibly because she was "the reclusive voodoo priestess." That would explain that.
And there's this:
Rafiki, from The Lion King. I'm sorry, but I don't know where that photo came from. This one:
came from here, where it says it's Buyi Sama as Rafiki at the Mandalay Bay in Las Vegas.
I could study this costume for DAYS. Sure, it's just a costume, but if it's well done, it's surely fabulous.
OK--so that kind of gives a broad overview of what I'm talking about. Not costume, although you could call those garments costumes. But "costume" to me implies something you wear for performances or special events, rather than your everyday garments. I'm thinking Costumes for Real Life.
Some more notes--
~~meaningful doesn't mean it has to have specific significance, like a shirt that protects you from evil or a bag that makes you stronger. It can just be that it's important to you for whatever reason, something vague and amorphous but nevertheless important.
~~heavily embellished. A shirt might be important because it was a gift, but it's not really interesting to me unless something has been done to it. The sign of the human hand: stitching, beading, the use of thread to attach something to the garment.
~~it needs to be worn, not something that hangs on the wall. So it should be constructed for wearability--sturdy, something you don't have to worry about and treat preciously
~~old is much better than new
~~it seems that it's important that there's the sense that the garment is still being added to, that it's never finished.
~~hidden meaning is good--like symbols or names or text sewn into the lining or the inside of pockets. I've never done this, but since I'm just now refining my interest and honing the obsession, I'm sure this will happen.
~~When I think of the Perfect Garment, I think of something so heavily embellished, so thoroughly worn and worked, that you could look at it for an hour and not see everything. It would be passed on to someone else, or even, perhaps, donated to a museum of some kind.
In my daydreams about this kind of garment, I'd have one of each: a jacket, a pair of jeans, a jeans skirt, a dress, a long coat, a shirt. Each one would be so intricate, so intense, so *me* that it would be the only one I'd need. On the other hand, I can't stop collecting multiples of things, like the dozens of tank tops (I don't think a tank top could ever be The Perfect Garment, but who knows--several of mine are beaded by hand). I'm always looking and looking. I imagine that the perfect things will someday appear, worn and broken in by their previous owner and then, somehow, passed on. I imagine a long, worn-soft denim coat, one that flares out in a peplum style--a denim frock coat, sort of, with leather trim and deep pockets, just slightly large. I could work on it for years, adding to it. I've never seen one like this and can't imagine making one--because where would I find worn-smooth denim? And a pattern--I'd need a pattern to make a coat. I want one to just turn up somehow.
A chambray tunic, soft, with pockets. A heavier chambray--not too thin, but not TOO heavy.
The perfect leather bag--handmade, perhaps. Sturdy, quirky. I have one that I bought on ebay that I'm loving a lot right now. I find these things that other people don't seem to see as the marvels they are, and I get them for really cheap. And then I can do things to them (although working with leather is proving to be tough, literally, and my fingers are not singing in happiness). I'm trying to figure out some leather-working skills that will allow me to do cool stuff.
This refining of what I'm doing here has sort of kicked into a higher gear. Now I can see which things are never going to be The Perfect Garment (or one of many Perfect Garments (and yes, I know that sounds a little like I've been to Utah and have drunk the water), and I can donate those back to the thrift store. I like to imagine that, when I die, there will be a little closet with a selection of Perfect Clothes, just amazing things that somebody will find totally delightful.
So I'd better get busy, huh? Now I just need to find other people who have this same obsession, who love their clothes and are creating an idiosyncratic wardrobe of their very own. They're out there, surely. If you come across anything--photos, books, garments in your closet that cry out "I'm Ricë's Perfect Garment!" let me know--if you hear of an exhibit of clothes or costumes or know of books that shows great stuff, I can't wait to hear about it.
XO
making do
2 days ago













35 comments:
Until the last 100 years, what you are doing was normal. Most people hand made their own clothing and put personal touches everywhere. My great grandmother's nightgown has crocheted cuffs and her initials embroidered right into the plain white cloth. Of course they conformed to the fashion of the time, but each piece of clothing was unique, some more unique than others. We in our ready wear ready made society have lost this, and only a few of us have figured out how to feed this need.
From Julie:
How about "Embellished Lovelies"?
When people shop at thrift stores, shop their closets or embellish clothing according to their own tastes, they develop a better-looking and more distinct personal style.
You need to look up Rachel Kinsey Clark--you can goggle her. She makes her own clothes and they are amazing.
Debbie
Thank you for this post. I also have always been drawn to unique clothing that I (or someone else) has embellished. My book was "American Denim". I found it at my local library. It opened my eyes to what clothing could be. An expression of my inner self or a armor against the world.
When I married my husband I wore a camisole & petticoat that I made from a Folkwear Pattern "Edwardian Underthings". I crocheted the lace on the camisole (at lunch & coffee breaks, camping trips, everywhere). I felt wonderful in that outfit. I have had great pieces that were hand-me-downs from friends. I have made some awesome stuff. It shows the world who I am.
My brother had a favorite pair of jeans that he had me patch repeatedly. He had exacting standards. All hand stitched with buttonhole stitch and he chose the thread. I did the same for myself with colorful threads and added pockets from other jeans because mine didn't come with them.
I love to look at boro on the blog site Sri Threads. I think I may be a kindred spirit.
Diane
Oops! I am sorry that I do not know who created that book "American Denim" right off hand but I will try to give credit where it is due.
Diane
"Personal Style" is what my brain calls what you're describing. It ranges from the small red dot Mom sewed over the burn hole in her shirt to a heavily embroidered jeans jacket I had in college. Style as opposed to fashion.
I started a necklace years ago that might fit in with what you are writing about. Not the 'perfect necklace' but it has a life of its own. Talisman, ritual object? perhaps my take would always be spiritual. Perhaps that isn't so much your inclination.
Anyway this necklace is one for the death goddess. Beadwoven in peyote stitch with symbols of vultures on it.
I never finished it because it was too dark.
Sorry if I am not on the right track, but that is where your post took me.
I started making jewelry because I could not find the perfect necklace, the perfect pair of earrings... And like Zom, I started a necklace years ago that is not finished or I'd rather say it's ever changing... I called it "voodoo" just to creep people...
Thanks for sharing your thought...
This is exactly what I love most about the web: while you know there are other people out there who love what you love, In Real Life, out there in your little town, you'd never find them. Here, though? Here we are. "Personal Style" is a good description, but what would we call an individual piece? Like a jacket? Like if you wanted to say, "It's not couture; it's _____." Artwear is the closest I can think of, but that seems to make it too precious, like something you'd put on only for a gallery opening or something. Hmmmm. Still thinking~~
Oh! I love the boro at Sri Threads! Thank you so much--the mending on the inside of that one just makes me SO happy! Hand mending--I forgot that~~there are few things I love better than hand mending. I saw a photo of Danita, the artist, before I actually met her, and she was wearing a sweater that had been mended with cool stitches. I knew I'd like her (and indeed, when we met in El Paso, I did).
I like your thoughts about this. Very much.
Julie Said:
There are many good thoughts here on this topic. Another idea:
Personalized Threads
Check out Agnes's Jacket, a textile work of art I've been fascinated with for many months now. This jacket is actually in a museum in Germany and her story is amazing. TheLuluBird's blog has the story and lots of pics here. This story has inspired me in SO many ways. Ravenlynn
Thanks for reminding me of that jacket, R--I've seen photos of it and love the idea, but I hate that it records misery, you know? So many of the female artists we hear about and whose work we see were all about the pain and suffering--Frida Kahlo, Sylvia Plath. I hate that women are so often The Sufferers. I wish there were a garment like this that's all about joy. Guess we'd better get busy, huh?
Exactly! Turn the idea on its head & capture the positives in life for an awesome display in a museum somewhere! All art is definitely therapeutic & a lot of tortured souls turn to self-expression to relieve the angst, but I am more a fan of keeping it positive. Making myself work with happy & colorful/light & cheerful sometimes does a LOT more to help destroy the pervasive negatives. Light a candle in a dark room & the dark immediately goes away! Not magic, just the Universe "trading UP!"
If you are looking for simple patterns for coats, jackets etc., you might want to consider all the various garments made by indigenous peoples from widths of cloth from their looms developed by their culture. The bog jacket in particular can be of great interest if made from a sari, or African wax cloth. I'm having fun doing this as an adjunct to an Eco Garment class here in England. Some wonderful things can be found here in charity (thrift) shops with a bit of patience and an eye for interesting cloth.
"American Denim" Richard M. Owens and Tony Lane.
How about "Soul Threads" or?
mrsc
I went to an art fair today and there was a woman selling clothing that she had reclaimed and refashioned. Each was one of a kind with hand stitching and patches and ruffles that really were more like layers. I wish I could describe them to you better or have a photo, but of course I couldn't take pictures or make sketches. I thought of you and this post immediately. She doesn't have a website, but I have her phone number. She calls her work "Rethreads".
I once had a chambray shirt that I had embroidered some designs around the placket and the pockets and I loved that shirt. I felt wonderful and invicible when I wore it. Unfortunately, I am a busty woman and it wore to threads over the bustline and there was literally nothing left of it.
Yep, got "American Denim." Kind of disappointing after NF&F. But then, what isn't?
I adore old chambray. I lust after it. I never FIND any, but I keep dreaming.
Rice, you lust after/create/wear "Serious Joy" clothing !
(hey)Jude
Re: Suella, there is a little booklet, badly reviewed on Amazon, called Cut My Cote, about how various cultures have made clothing that makes best use of the size of the cloth woven on their cultural looms. Or are the looms the right size to create the cloth they need. I have always treasured this book. Once the basic garment is constructed, let the embellishing begin. :-)
Which led me to this nifty blogpost about this book and the origin of proverbs??
http://teaandsarcasm.blogspot.com/2008/05/cut-my-cote-literally-proverbially.html
I think "expressive" needs to be in there somewhere.
I bought a used jean jacket and embellished it with embroidery thread and beads. It could use more.
It doesn't get worn as much as it should because I ran into a couple of road blocks. Where I put the fabric patch on the shoulder is black from my purse strap so it needs another patch or something.
The other issue is that I jumped on the worn patches on the collar with beads so the most heavily worn bits are the most heavily encrusted. I never stopped to think that meant I would constantly have beads rubbing against my neck.
It does seem like it's more about the expression than the clothing itself, so maybe Expressive Wear or Expressive Couture.
By the way, the leatherworkers have a big shindig in Wickenburg, AZ -- thinking about crashing it this year to learn their tricks. Interested?
"Artwear" is the name of my jewelry business. A combination of art to wear.
I hope you're using glover's needles to sew on leather. They have a different shaped point and slice through the leather, rather than piercing it. Much easier on your fingers!
yay for unique handmade/altered clothing. I was very inspired by a book called 'Art To Wear', that I found in a library. I'm getting into making my own stuff it's wonderful, see some on my blog. Haven't thought of a name for it yet!
This really has nothing to do with your post, but I had a dream last night wherein you and I went shopping at a large craft store, and bought a bunch of white pashminas to dye. The EGE was there, but he had this enormous coiffure of shiny elvis-like hair, and you and I kept putting a tiara on top of it. This is odd as 1.) we have never met, and 2.) Earl has no shiny rock-hard hair.
I blame it on the Zoloft.
Wow, this post really spoke to me. I'm your age and love what you had to say about turning 55. I got Native Funk & Flash in 1974 and it rocked my world. I still take it out and get inspired. I have been dreaming of a denim jacket to embellish for a few years, but can't seem to find the right one to even start on...
Better get busy, times a wastin....
How about indie-wear?
We have indie films and indi publishers.
For me, it's the look of vintage pieces with beautiful beadwork. I've done costuming, and actually felt more at home in some of those pieces than I do in jeans. I make vintage-looking jewelry, because that's what appeals to me and I can't always find what I like — and I just enjoy making it, recycling broken pieces into my new things. I've made/embellished clothes, hats, purses, and even shoes. Not as intensely decorated as some of the photos you show, as I tend to like subdued designs, but it still makes my things personal to me. As for what to call it...gosh, that's a toughie. Artwear is good, but not quite there...I'm sure you or someone here will come up with the perfect name. :=)
OUTSIDER COUTURE?
... so much I want to say in response to this ... great thoughts here ... I need to mull it over.
BUT let me start by saying how glad I am that you also dislike the phrase "wearable art." It really turns me off and I refuse to use it to describe my own work. Maybe because it suggest a separation between who we are and what's "hanging" off of us - it denies us the intimate relationship we have with clothing and adornment.
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